The most tranquil section of Croatia’s 6,000km coastline will always be Istria. The love-heart-shaped triangle near Italy belonged to Venice for centuries. In red-roofed towns like Rovinj locals still shout buona sera while eating tonno affumicato. Since 2019 a brand-new marina
has welcomed 50m yachts, plus longer vessels with advance notice. Rovinj’s harbour leads onto Lim Fjord, a watery crescent famed for oysters, clams and crustaceans. It was the favoured holiday spot for Venetian lover boy Giacomo Casanova who gobbled the shellfish as an aphrodisiac, then diarised his vacation conquests. On Istria’s eastern coast, Rijeka will shine as Europe’s Capital of Culture 2020. Here fancy Austro-Hungarian mansions dating from Viennese rule house no-nonsense restaurants. Choose between marinated mullet, sea bass carpaccio, wild asparagus, truffle omelettes and local Kvarner prawns.